If I want to weave a structure such as overshot, summer and winter, or a lace weave double wide for a tablecloth, what problems can I expect? I have just given away my large floor loom and will be using a 36” table loom for this.
When it comes time to tie on the warp threads at the front, I consistently get a diagonal line of threads, with the threads on one side being shorter than the other.
The most important principle about irregular sleying orders is to spread the threads as evenly as possible throughout the reed.
I read in Allen Fannin's book about how best to wind a bobbin. I started winding bobbins that way and my selvages are better.
I wove a scarf with rayon chenille warp and a silk/cotton weft. Now I have a chenille fringe that is raveling away. What would be the best way to avoid a "bare" fringe for this scarf?
How can you weave a project that calls for 7 treadles using a loom with only 6 treadles? Try changing your tie-up.
Is there anything I should be aware of when it comes to deflected doubleweave patterns using a wool that will full quite a bit after it is washed?
I would really like to see a discussion of the best way to translate an American weaving draft into a Swedish draft. The conventions are so different, I get brain freeze trying to do it myself!
Should hemming, fringe twisting, etc. for woven pieces be done before or after wet-finishing them?
I am a beginning weaver (actually, a beginning-again weaver) and need help with yarn substitutions. I am using an older pattern from Handwoven, November/December 1996, “Man’s Scarf in Silk and Cotton.” It calls for 12/2 silk at 2,790 yd/lb.